Italy Off-Season: A Quiet Pisa and a Lively Florence
Written on February 4th, 2025 by Dariusz Siedlecki
My journey wasn’t meticulously planned from the start—it evolved as I went. Initially, Spain was meant to be my first major stop, but logistics had other plans. What was originally supposed to be a direct route to Spain unexpectedly led me to Pisa. A convenient flight connection made it a natural layover, turning an unplanned detour into an opportunity to explore a city I knew little about.
Now, when you think of Pisa, what comes to mind? For me, it was, of course, the Leaning Tower. But beyond that? I drew a blank. I was curious to see what else this city had to offer.
I arrived in the late afternoon, already after dark. Normally, I try to avoid arriving in a new city at night, but Pisa’s airport is conveniently located just 2 km from the city center. A shuttle train takes only 10 minutes, but with my light backpack, walking for 20 minutes was an easy choice. After checking into my hotel, I called it an early night, ready to explore the next day.
The following days were, admittedly, a bit disappointing. Some tourist cities remain lively even in the off-season, while others feel like ghost towns. Pisa, unfortunately, fell into the latter category. Google didn’t suggest many activities beyond seeing the famous tower. Luckily, an advertisement at the airport caught my attention—an exhibition featuring the Japanese ukiyo-e artist Hokusai. As a fan of woodblock prints, this immediately became a must-see.
This turned out to be a fantastic decision. The exhibition was held at Palazzo Blu, a beautiful historic building known for its rotating exhibits. The deep blue facade was already impressive, but stepping inside was even better. The entire space was dedicated to Hokusai’s masterpieces, including his iconic The Great Wave off Kanagawa, alongside works from other ukiyo-e artists. The thoughtful curation not only highlighted his artistic evolution but also the broader influences of nature and mythology on the art form. For a moment, I forgot I was in Italy—it felt like stepping into another world.
Next stop was the iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa. While many visitors eagerly climb to the top, I decided against it—after all, my hotel room already offered a fantastic view of the city. Instead, I was far more entertained by the scene unfolding in the square below. The real spectacle? Tourists attempting to perfect the classic “holding up the tower” pose. Some were incredibly dedicated, carefully adjusting their angles, while others failed spectacularly. Watching this ongoing performance turned out to be the real highlight—an ever-changing, tourist-driven comedy show set against one of the world’s most famous landmarks.
Since Pisa didn’t have much to offer in the evenings, I decided to take a day trip to Florence. The regional train ride was straightforward, and unlike Pisa, Florence was packed with tourists even in the off-season.
Seeing the city’s breathtaking architecture immediately triggered my inner gaming nerd—I kept thinking about Assassin’s Creed and imagined scaling the cathedral walls. The resemblance to the game was uncanny, but I wasn’t quite eager enough to test my climbing skills in real life.
Instead of visiting the usual highlights like Michelangelo’s David or the cathedral (the queues were intimidating), I opted for two lesser-known museums—Museo Galileo and Museo Leonardo Da Vinci. Both were filled with fascinating exhibits, reproductions of their inventions, and rich insights into their lives. Visiting in late January meant the museums were blissfully empty, making the experience even more enjoyable.
Pisa’s nightlife was practically nonexistent, with most places shutting down by 20:00. But I did have one important mission: finding the best carbonara. My first attempt, at a traditional-looking place called Buca di San Ranieri, was a disappointment. However, my second attempt, at a tiny local restaurant called Il Ristoro della Pe’, was life-changing. This was the best carbonara I’d ever had—thickly cut guanciale, a perfectly creamy sauce, and a massive portion. It was everything I had ever imagined carbonara should be.
Whereas Pisa likely won’t be a place I return to, Florence left a much stronger impression. If you plan on visiting, I highly recommend going off-season—yes, it’s colder, but avoiding the typical tourist crowds makes everything far more enjoyable. And if you ever find yourself in Pisa, do yourself a favor—skip the climb up the Leaning Tower and just watch the people instead. It’s far more entertaining.
Accommodation
- Hotel La Pace - Located right next to the train station, a perfect stay for Pisa, especially if you want to visit other cities in the area. The rooms are very straigthforward, but the place was quiet, warm and the staff was extremely helpful.
Food Spots
- Il Ristoro della Pe’ - A very small, cozy restaurant located fairly close to the tower. The kitchen is part of the restaurant so you can see the cook making everything, and I could observe him making my Carbonara - and steal some of his techniques for when I’ll make one next time!
Practical Takeaways
- Public Transport: I didn’t use local transportation in Pisa, but regional trains were efficient. Trains between Pisa and Florence run every 30 minutes, cost 9.30 EUR, and allow for flexible ticket changes - and you can buy the ticket online.
- Airport transfer: Pisa’s airport is within walking distance from the city center (about 20 minutes). If you have heavy luggage, the Pisamover shuttle costs 6.50 EUR one way and takes just 5 minutes.
- Mobile Internet: Internet coverage in Italy was hit-or-miss. On trains, connectivity was practically nonexistent. Luckily, I had Balatro installed on my phone, so the lack of internet barely registered. For eSIM users, Orange offers great tourist plans (e.g., 5GB for 9 EUR).
City Habits
During my stay, I “collided” with locals on the street at least four times—not because of intentional rudeness, but because of the legendary expressiveness of Italians. All the stereotypes are true. Picture this: I’m walking peacefully down the street when suddenly, I find myself dodging wild hand gestures as someone passionately debates the philosophical depth of pasta shapes with their friend. Their enthusiasm is impressive, but for future reference—steer clear of animated conversations if you don’t want to get accidentally smacked in the face by an impassioned discussion about rigatoni.
